Henriette den Ouden, University of Maryland Eastern Shore Extension, grew up in the Netherlands where she learned about elderberries through stories passed down through generations. den Ouden discussed tips for growing this versatile fruit at the Mid-Atlantic Fruit & Vegetable Convention.
“The story is, if you have elderberries in the middle of the garden, they will protect your garden,” said den Ouden. “It gives the garden strength. If you start growing elderberries and want to attract people through agritourism, it’s a great plant for storytelling events. You can attract people just through stories, and you can make up your own stories.”
Elderberries have a long history of being used for wine making. Other traditional uses include syrups, jellies, vinegar, candy, sauces and medicine. Elderberries are high in flavonoids (anthocyanins), which give the berries their bluish-purple color and contribute to their antioxidant properties.
den Ouden explained that the native European elderberry, Sambucus nigra nigra, will grow into a tree if left untrained. European cultivars tend to remain lower, which makes harvest easier. Native elderberries are suitable for wildlife and tend to be long-lived, but growers interested in a profitable crop should consider growing improved cultivars.
The primary American variety, S. nigra canadensis, remains low-growing and can be trained as a hedgerow. The popular cultivar ‘Marge’ is an open-pollinated variety derived from the European elderberry ‘Haschberg.’ ‘Marge’ is fast-growing, tall at maturity, drought resistant and ideal for medicinal purposes. Although ‘Marge’ doesn’t produce fruit in its first year, it has the earliest harvest date – but it tends to be short-lived in the U.S.
The ‘Johns’ variety features large clusters of white flowers that yield dark berries in late summer. Both flowers and ripe berries are edible. ‘Bob Gordon’ has large clusters on first-year shoots, and the clusters hang upside-down. ‘Bob Gordon’ is one of the newest cultivars and is high-yielding. The juice has consistently high Brix and is good for wine making.
‘Adam’ is a sweet cultivar and does well in colder winters. It’s harvested late and bears large fruit. ‘Wyldewood’ has early bud break but late harvest. This popular cultivar yields well with large berries and can be cut down after the season in warmer areas.
den Ouden said cultivar selection should be based on location, local pests and diseases, preferred acidity, fruiting time and intended use. Consider whether you’re making juice, wine, dried berries or flowers.
She emphasized the importance of research prior to making cultivar selections to be sure choices are a good fit for your location.
“In Europe, they dry flowers,” den Ouden said. “The other thing popular is elderflower syrup used in cocktails and mocktails. Determine whether an early or late crop is most desirable.”
Ideal growing conditions for elderberries include moderately acidic soil (pH 5.5 to 6.5). The ideal soil is well-drained loam or clay-like and should retain moisture but also drain well. Elderberries don’t do well in sandy soil, brackish soil or soil that floods often.
Elderberry flowers are used in teas and jams, and add flair to desserts. Photo by Todd Dudek, UMES Ag Communications
For optimum yield, dead branches should be pruned annually. Weed control, especially in the first year, is critical. Elderberries require annual compost applications and deer protection. In some areas, groundhogs are a problem, especially in the first year of establishment.
Most elderberries are grown organically for several reasons, including the fact that very few pesticides are approved for conventionally grown elderberries. Additionally, people who take elderberry syrup tend to consume up to 10 times the recommended amount.
“That’s the main reason most medicinal herbs are organically grown,” said den Ouden. “If you sell elderberries as ‘medicine,’ it’s much better if they are organic.”
Start elderberry plants in a weed-free area with healthy soil. If possible, plant in an area that had a cover crop the previous year. Winter or early spring cuttings are ideal. Select cuttings with two or three nodes, and plant one or two of the nodes directly in soil. Sprouted elderberry cuttings that have been started in soil do well when transplanted directly.
Elderberry cuttings can also be started in deep pots that are kept cool and watered regularly. Once they have rooted, transfer young plants to a weed-free area. “Don’t put them in a hoop house or greenhouse where it gets warm,” said den Ouden. “They shouldn’t be in direct sun.”
In the field, space plants three to six feet apart, with six feet between rows. Young plants require plenty of moisture, and in some cases, irrigation for the first several years. Elderberries also require good air flow.
“They can be planted on plastic with irrigation underneath,” said den Ouden. “That keeps elderberries where you planted them and you won’t have shoots everywhere else. But you will have to replace plants because they won’t spread.”
Elderberries that aren’t managed become tall and wide and are difficult to harvest. Ideally, plants are pruned to remain narrow with harvest height in mind. While native elderberries are long-lived, most cultivars should be replaced quadrennially. Once a block of elderberries is established, plan a rotation that involves replacing some of the bushes each year.
“Replace plants after three to four years,” said den Ouden, adding that plants replace themselves. “If you have American cultivars such as ‘Adam,’ ‘Johns’ or ‘Marge,’ don’t pull them. The only thing to take away is the dead stems.”
Insect pests of elderberry include spotted wing Drosophila (SWD), which deposits larvae in ripe berries. Japanese beetles can be tough on late-bearing varieties. Cankers caused by the elder shoot borer can destroy branches. The elderberry sawfly appears as a white caterpillar on flowers but doesn’t cause extensive damage.
Elderberry rust, which requires the presence of sedge to complete its lifecycle, is a fungus that can destroy flowers. Tomato ringspot virus appears as round spots on leaves. Although this virus will weaken bushes, damage isn’t usually serious. Another potential issue is Eriophyid mites that overwinter in elderberry stems and may be introduced through cuttings.
Pest management begins with annual pruning of old and dead branches. If rusts or cankers return after treatment, remove the entire plant, including roots.
Purchase fungus-free plants and establish new plantings in weed-free areas. Remove any native elderberry bushes in the area – they may harbor pests and disease. Cuttings with a hole on the top are probably harboring elder borers, so these sections should be removed and discarded.
Harvest berries when they are dark and shiny. Berries should be picked in clusters and placed in cool water as soon as possible after harvest.
“Make sure ripe berries are kept picked,” said den Ouden. “If you leave them on, expect birds. Know when birds are going to come – and they will come. Harvest all the berries and don’t let the berries fall on the ground.”
by Sally Colby
