The wine industry has made significant strides in sustainability, finding innovative ways to address environmental, social and economic challenges. Chris Gerling, senior Extension associate at Cornell AgriTech in Geneva, NY, spoke about efforts of sustainability at the 2025 Ohio Grape & Wine Conference earlier this year.
Gerling currently works with the craft beverage industry, creating educational programs to help support the development and quality of wines, ciders and distilled spirits.
Around Seneca Lake in New York, the Seneca Lake Order of Brewers (humorously nicknamed the “SLOBs”) has exemplified creative sustainability efforts. Through a collaborative project, they produced PURE Pils, a special beer sold as a fundraiser and awareness campaign highlighting water quality issues essential to brewing and the community.
“It’s more than just beer,” said Gerling. “It’s a conversation starter about protecting our water.”
This initiative underscores that sustainability isn’t limited to traditional environmental practices – it can also mean actively supporting causes that matter to a community. Gerling pointed out that while it’s easy for vineyard and brewery owners to work in isolation, it’s much more advantageous to work together and consider possibilities beyond updating farm equipment or installing solar panels for continued sustainability.
“Sometimes the simplest changes can make the biggest difference,” Gerling stated.
However, sustainability in winemaking also involves navigating the challenges of cultivating various grape varieties. Traditional European Vitis vinifera grapes face difficulties due to their genetic similarities and sensitivity to local environmental pressures. Despite these challenges, many growers persist with varieties of V. vinifera, like Merlot, while acknowledging its limitations. As Gerling said in his presentation, “Growing Merlot here is a labor of love – it’s not easy, but it’s worth it.”
Conversely, native American varieties like Concord (V. labrusca) thrive with fewer interventions. Historically, these grapes shaped the Seneca region’s wine industry, surviving harsh conditions and requiring fewer chemical treatments. Today, some producers embrace these resilient varieties, using low-intervention techniques that resonate with environmentally conscious consumers.
Gerling explained that hybrids can offer a promising middle ground, combining the desirable characteristics of V. vinifera with the hardiness of native varieties. While these hybrid species may offer a path toward further sustainability in wine production, marketing these lesser-known hybrids can be difficult.
Unlike new apple varieties that consumers eagerly try, hybrid wines often face skepticism. However, Gerling suggested that through certification and collaboration with other wineries, consumer attitudes about hybrid-made wines can change.
Certifications and sustainable practices provide formal recognition for wineries’ efforts. Programs like the New York Sustainable Winegrowing Initiative and the VineBalance and Winery Sustainability workbooks can guide growers toward sustainable practices while allowing flexibility to accommodate regional differences.
“Certification isn’t just a label,” Gerling said. “It’s a commitment to better practices” – something that today’s consumers can recognize and appreciate. Similar initiatives have emerged in Michigan, showing a growing interest from both wine producers and consumers in structured sustainability.
While some sustainability programs focus on vineyard practices, efforts like those with the Rochester Institute of Technology’s Pollution Prevention Institute aim to minimize water, energy and chemical usage in wineries. These tools offer a practical yet informal way for wineries to evaluate their impact and explore improvements.
Ultimately, the wine industry’s path toward sustainability is multifaceted, embracing creative marketing, scientific advancements and collaborative certifications. Though challenges persist, the commitment to sustainable growth signals a promising future for winemaking communities.
For more information on the Winery Sustainability Workbook, visit tinyurl.com/WineryWorkbook.
The Guidelines for Managing Winery Wastewater can be found at tinyurl.com/WineryWastewater.
by Ken Griffin
