The annual Tales of the Cocktail conference isn’t just about the final intoxicating products. There is also a lot of information shared on how the ingredients that go into your favorite wines and spirits are grown, harvested and handled.

Looking specifically at terroir in the “SoilEd: Digging into Flavor” session, presented by Campari Academy, were Zahra Bates, an ambassador for Courvoisier; Iain McCallum, master of spirits for Beam Suntory; and Tyler Wang, brand ambassador for El Tesoro Suntory.

In looking at terroir, they were inviting everyone to examine how the raw products used in spirits can look the same but taste very differently before distillers even get to the production process.

McCallum explained, “Terroir is the essence of a place – the sun, the topography, the climate, the geology, the texture of the soil. But it’s also about the people.” Most often linked to the flavor of wine, terroir can influence any crop that is grown in soil.

“Terroir cannot be created or replicated, it can only be amplified or mitigated,” Bates added.

When it comes to spirits specifically, McCallum noted that agave (which is fermented into tequila and mezcal) and cognac are the most terroir-driven. (Cognac must come from the wine-growing region in the departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime near Cognac, France, and among the specified grapes used in making it, Ugni blanc is the most widely used.)

However, McCallum said, with some products, the idea of terroir is overused – or not noticeable.

That’s changing because “we’re seeing a shift in agriculture – it’s more about partnering with nature instead of conquering it,” McCallum said.

As examples, he noted the “Three Sisters” of corn, beans and squash as a perfect example of regenerative agriculture used by Iroquois growers. He also noted the Pueblo people’s waffle gardens, which are sunken garden beds enclosed by clay-heavy walls that help retain water. There’s also alley cropping, an agroforestry practice that places trees within agricultural cropland systems (which is more popular in Europe but gaining traction in America).

And there’s generational knowledge being passed down about what actually works for growers instead of boiler plate plant-grow-harvest instructions.

The “SoilEd” panel featured Iain McCallum, master of spirits for Beam Suntory, and Zahra Bates, Courvoisier ambassador (seated), as well as Tyler Wang, brand ambassador for El Tesoro Suntory, who spoke about how terroir influences agave and, consequently, tequila and mezcal. Photo by Courtney Llewellyn

Looking at Soils

The panel briefly explained the main soil types across North America, along with their qualities:

  • Loam – Offers vigorous growth at the expense of flavor; plants will require heavy pruning; the soil requires lots of aeration
  • Sandy – Well drained; retains heat; resistant to pests
  • Clay – Stays cool; retains water; very dense
  • Chalky – Calcite retains water; limestone removes natural iron, resulting in more concentrated flavor
  • Volcanic – Rich in many nutrients; acts as a stimulant for plant growth; mildly acidic; leads to mineral-heavy flavors

Many regions have various mixtures of these types of soil, and therefore soil testing is important to know what minerals are in your soil – then you can determine how that will affect your crops’ terroir.

“We’re growing more food than ever around the world but still suffering from malnutrition. We need to put nutrients back in the soil for the crop we grow,” McCallum stated.

But the nutrients are just a part of the puzzle. Microclimates are highly influential as well. Your USDA Hardiness Zone isn’t nearly as important as what impacts each acre you grow on.

How can microclimate affect crop production? Soil properties tie into soil moisture, nitrogen fixation and germination; water retention can affect heat conductivity and soil temperatures and the presence of pests (and, more likely, diseases); land use and vegetation influences air humidity (which can lead to increased or reduced desiccation); the landscape morphology can shape wind direction and speed, the movements of aerosols and dust, heat dissipation and frost heave; and air temperatures tie back to soil moisture, which can influence drought buffering and help mitigate temperature peaks.

It’s all linked together – everything above ground and below ground.

“Most crops today are grown for size and speed. We need to slow it down to make them better,” McCallum said.

by Courtney Llewellyn